Saturday, January 23, 2010

Kakizome

My first Japanese class of 2010 wasn't so much about language as it was culture. We did 書き初め kakizome, the first calligraphy of the new year. Traditionally, it's performed on January 2nd, although more and more it's being assigned as winter vacation homework for elementary school students (who all have to study calligraphy in school).

My teacher gave my partner and I the option of several different characters, including 虎 tora (tiger - this year's zodiac animal), 愛 ai (love), a couple I can't remember, and 夢 yume (dream).

This was a tough one. The character you choose kind of says a lot about your hopes for the coming year. I was debating between 愛 and 夢, love or dream. Which is more important?

There are so many reasons I came to Japan, many things I've learned, been disappointed by, been surprised by, enjoyed. The experience can been interpreted in so many ways. But what kind of fortune am I hoping for in the coming year? What do I still want to achieve?

I decided to go with 夢, dream. My partner did as well.


It's actually a lot harder than it looks. My teacher gave us each an example character to practice off, and several sheets of newspaper before we moved on to the rice paper for the real one.

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We each got three attempts. From which we picked what we all thought was the best of the three to keep.



May we all have fortuitous dreams this year ^_^

Monday, December 21, 2009

Travelling

I'm currently at the airport in Nagoya. Well, not at the airport, I'm in a hotel very close to the airport (on the same island. Central Japan International Airport [CENTRAIR for short] is built on a man-made island), but that's beside the point.

I'm going home for Christmas! And my longest trip home (3 weeks) since I moved to Japan. Every year it seems to get longer by about a week, hahahaha.

Anyway, I decided to avoid the stress of same-day commuting to the airport and stayed in a hotel last night. Flight leaves in about 5 hours. And in true Jen-travel style, getting here was a huge pain, hahahahahhaha

Let me explain. We got a LOT of snow in Takayama over the weekend. The whole region got a lot of snow, I'd say. I was in Toyama Friday night for an end-of-the-year party for work and we basically drove through a blizzard out and back. Safety-first! Is not always the motto here, haha.

It continued snowing all weekend, to the point that they closed part of the highway between Takayama and Nagoya. I was planning to take the bus. But they closed the highway. Snowing all weekend, and apparently they didn't have ample warning to get the plows out. Although, as with most things in Japan, I only understoond about half of what I heard so there was probably more of a reason than that. At least I like to tell my self there was, anyway.

So I had to take the train. Which costs about twice as much as the bus and takes just as long. D'oh! But at least it doesn't depend on roads being open and it never gets stuck in traffic...

So I get to Nagoya and then I have to get out to the airport, where my hotel is. This is not my first time doing this; I've flown out of this airport several times. Most recently when I went to Korea in September. So I was fairly sure I knew what I was doing when I hauled my enormous bag down the steps to the Meitetsu subway line, bought my ticket, and went down to the tracks. On the "airport" side.

And then proceeded to get on the wrong train. oops.

It seems this line splits at a stop called 太田川 (Odagawa), and I was on the line that doesn't go to the airport. And I didn't realize this until I'd been going the wrong way for about 20 minutes. I got nervous, checked the map, and realized I was going the wrong way. I checked with the conductor, who gave me an OMG you dummy look and told me I'd have to get off at the next stop. Nice of the people on the train to say something right? I mean, with that huge bag and the fact that I'm a foreigner I'm sure it was pretty obvious I was supposed to be going to the airport... but I digress.

I get off, haul that bag (25 kg) up and over the rail line, and down to the other side where the station master informed me I'd have to go BACK about 20 minutes to the Odagawa station and change there. Noooooooooooooooooo! It was already 1030pm by this point. And although Nagoya isn't anywhere near as cold as Takayama, it still gets pretty chilly at night. Wah.

And then, in typical Jen-travel fashion, I met a really cool guy who could speak English! He asked me where I was going and said he would help me get off at the right station to change trains. He was on his way home in Nagoya.

Turns out he started using English about 30 years ago on a trip to India. He loves mountain climbing, and he spent several months there backpacking. And then he went back again. He's climbed mountains all over Japan, including Fuji, IN DECEMBER. "Yes, it's very dangerous. But very beautiful!" He told me ^^

He's been all over Asia, and once to New Zealand, and he studied for 2 years at a university in Thailand. Where he met his wife. They have 2 children, a daughter and a son, both grown now. The family makes yearly trips back to Thailand to visit her family, although he doesn't always have time to join them. He did, however, make sure to tell me the best places to visit :) He speaks fluent Thai, and his wife can (now) speak Japanese very well. He said it took them having children for her to really try to learn it, since she didn't want to be the only mother at the kindergarten who couldn't understand anything, haha

By the time I got to the stop where I had to change, I had learned so many interesting things about this man. Except his name.

What is it about travelling and meeting strangers that makes people open up so much? Maybe it's the fleeting nature of the encounter, knowing you will never see this person again. So it's ok to tell them things I bet even his co-workers don't know (or maybe have never asked). At any rate, my embarrassing mistake at Nagoya station, which I had been cursing as I got off that first train, hauled my luggage up and over the tracks, and down the other side, that mistake turned into a wonderful opportunity to meet someone I would have otherwise never encountered.

Merry Christmas everybody!

Saturday, December 12, 2009

On pleasant surprises at the 100 Yen Shop

My favorite Japanese entertainer of all-time is a man by the name of Nagase Tomoya (family-name first, personal-name last). He's the lead singer of the band TOKIO and an actor who has appeared in many, MANY dramas. In fact, he's the guy who played the lead in my very first (and still one of my favorite) Japanese dramas, My Boss My Hero. You may or may not remember the post I made about it shortly after moving to Japan in 2007. He was also the lead in Utahime. ^_^

Anyway, I've made good use of this particular idol, all of my students know he's my favorite and I often use my "crush" on him to humorous effect in the classroom. It comes in really handy for demonstrating personal preference "I like Nagase Tomoya. Do you like Nagase Tomoya? Yes, I do!", comparatives "Nagase Tomoya is the most handsome actor in the world", passive-voice "I have loved Nagase Tomoya since 2007", etc.

And one of the best parts about living in Japan is that I get to see his mug everywhere. On tv. In movies. In magazines. And advertising just about anything you can imagine. Like cell phones



And jeans


Just today I was at the 100 Yen Shop and I saw this beautiful advertisement for Asahi beer:

I do believe he has advertised Suntory Beer as well

photo from tubefire
I'm actually more of a Kirin fan, but they've yet to use him in advertising (that I know of, anyway), hahahahaha
d(^_^)b

Thursday, December 3, 2009

Ah and Un

A friend of mine gave me a book shortly before he left Japan last summer, and I'm just now getting around to reading it. It's called "Hokkaido Highway Blues", by Will Ferguson. It's about a guy who decides to hitchhike his way from the southern tip of Kyuushu to the top of Hokkaido, following the cherry blossoms in the spring.

So far, it's pretty awesome ^_^ I've never recommended anything here before, but this one's pretty good, and it's full of good information about Japan.

One part, in particular, struck me as a good opportunity to show off a couple pics from a recent trip I took to Koyasan, a sacred mountain near Osaka that is full of temples and shrines and one very enormous graveyard


The part of the book I'm talking about is close to the beginning, actually right at the start of chapter 7, where he describes the stone statues that are always found guarding the entrance to Shinto shrines


You approach Shinto shrines through torii gates, the entrances are usually guarded by a pair of stone lion-dogs. Like so many things Japanese, these lion-dogs came to Japan from China through a Korean intermediary. When they define themselves, the Japanese tend to skip Korea, the middle-man, and claim a connection to China that is direct and overemphasized. But here, in the shrine grounds of the gods, the Korean connection is acknowledged: the guardians are called koma-inu, "Korean dogs." That Korean icons should protect the repositories of all that is Japanese in spirit- the Emperor's Church in a sense - that Korean dogs should be given such a high-ranking position is something rarely commented upon by the Japanese. These stone guardians provide a telling clue about the ancient Korean roots of the Japanese Imperial Family.

The lion-dogs were originally a lion and a dog, and were very different in appearance, but over the years stonecutters found it easier to carve them to the same proportions. The two figures grew more and more alike, until their features blended. One lion-dog has a mouth that is always open, the other has a mouth that is always closed. The open-mouthed lion-dog is named 'Ah', the other is named 'Un', or more properly, 'nn'. "Ah," is the first sound you make when you are born, "nn," the last sound you make when you die. "Ah" is the breath inhaled that begins life, "nn" the exhale of existence, a universe that turns on a single breath. 'Ah' is also the first symbol in the Japanese alphabet, 'n' the last. And so, between these two lion-dogs, you also have the A and Z, the Alpha and Omega. In the original Sanskrit, 'ah-un' means "the end and the beginning of the universe; infinity unleashed."



Infinity unleashed! word.

BTW, the book is actually much funnier than the above passage would imply. For example, in describing a conversation he has with some kids in the back of a car...
His eyes widened with an audible boing. "English! You speak English! Say something, say something in English."
"Wayne Newton is the Antichrist."
"Wow! What does that mean?"
"It's a poem. Kind of a haiku."


HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA =D

Saturday, November 28, 2009

a free gift, or a disguised punishment?

Haven't updated in a while, sorry! Partly due to a lack of interesting stuff to post about, and partly due to my own laziness. But, something interesting happened today that I thought I would share.

Some local ALTs here in Hida are having our own Thanksgiving dinner tonight, and I've been chosen to make the sweet potatoes. I've never made sweet potatoes before, and I don't have an oven. But, based on my success with apple pie, I figure I'll be ok.

Anyway, I had to go to the store and get the ingredients (sweet potatoes, mostly), where I was greeted by "Merry Christmas!" signs everywhere and "It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas" on the speakers, hahaha

But the really crazy thing, what surprised me more than all the obnoxious xmas-ing, was what happened at the check-out. My first year here all the supermarkets in Takayama instituted a new policy of charging for plastic bags, to encourage people to bring re-usable eco-bags. Usually I have one in my car, but today I forgot it at home and had to buy a plastic one. 15 yen, no big deal; it's not the price so much that makes me not want the plastic bags, I hate them more because once I get my stuff home and unpacked I then have to add it to the plastics bin...

So I get the bag, and along with it comes:

A pack of 3 boxes of natto >.<
For those of you too lazy to follow the wikipedia link, I'll copy some of the info for you here:
Nattō (なっとう or 納豆) is a traditional Japanese food made from soybeans fermented with Bacillus subtilis. It is popular especially as a breakfast food. As a rich source of protein, nattō and the soybean paste miso formed a vital source of nutrition in feudal Japan. Nattō can be an acquired taste because of its powerful smell, strong flavor, and sticky consistency.

"Can be an acquired taste" is kind of misleading. In my experience everyone, foreigners and Japanese alike, fall into two, very distinct camps with respect to natto. You either love it or you hate it. I'm in the latter group, hahaha, natto is definitely one of the grossest things I have ever had the misfortune to try. Unsurprisingly, that experience has only been thrust upon me during school lunch. One particularly horrific experience was the infamous shishamo-natto double-whammy lunch last year. *shudder*


So I find it unsurprising that, in the event you forget to bring your own bag to the supermarket, not only do you have to pay 15 yen for a plastic one, you now also get three boxes of natto as a "gift". I'm thinking the person behind this particular marketing campaign must also fall into the camp of natto haters.

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Autumn!

Fall in Hida is...

The autumn Takayama Festival


Chilly BBQs with friends

Hida no Sato


Festivals at small village shrines


Autumn Tea Ceremony



Hiking in Kamikochi




Coffee

Halloween


Hiking in Miyagawa



Visiting friends in Nyukawa



...TBC

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Sorting trash in Japan

I've recently been doing a bit of purging in my apartment, sorting through the small mountains of stuff that have slowly been collecting over the past two years of living here. Most of it is paper - old envelopes, magazines, junk mail, phone books, out-of-date tourist info and maps, old cards, half-finished lesson plans, and an overwhelming number of calendars, teaching resource books and "JET Journals" the good folks at CLAIR just keep on sending to us, year after year. Seriously, who needs FIVE calendars? I can understand one, maybe two (a big one to hang on your wall, and maybe a smaller one for your desk). They're quite pretty and useful in that they have all the Japanese holidays written in them. But five? Really? In a tiny Japanese apartment? They do suggest in the accompanying letter (itself a nice addition to my growing pile) that you can give the ones you don't need to coworkers and friends. But who am I supposed to be giving them to, really? Everything's written in English and all the people I know who could use an English calendar have themselves been inundated with too many. So we all end up with piles of unwanted crap, and nowhere to throw it away.

Which brings me to yet another interesting phenomena in Japan. People love packaging in this country. They LOVE IT. I suppose it's partly due to the culture of gift-giving here, in which case it's nice to have things in little individual packages. Makes sense for things like omiyage (souvenirs) or perhaps the odd, easily-perishable item that might go bad in relatively high (as compared with Denver, anyway) humidity. Box-lunches that benefit from a small self-contained snack also spring to mind. But the over packaging doesn't stop there. Everything comes individually wrapped. Buy a box of cookies? Open it up and you'll find 12 individually wrapped little snacks. Want some tissues? Here, have a box with 5 more boxes inside. How about a box of pens? Inside you'll find 20 pens that come in their own plastic bags. And don't even get me started on how those boxes of pens are themselves coated in plastic shrink-wrap.

As an environmentalist, I certainly have plenty to gripe about with such an gross example of wasteful packaging, strictly on moral grounds. But if I get off my high-horse and speak as a person living here, it's just plain hard to throw anything away. In this culture of over packaging, there are virtually NO TRASH CANS anywhere.

It's kind of a big joke amongst the foreign population, how we all end up carting around loads of garbage in our bags until we find a place to get rid of it. Out in public this usually takes the form of the convenience store, which is one of the only places you can ever find to get rid of your trash.


photo from julie in japan

You may have noticed that those aren't just ordinary trash cans. They're set up for you to sort your unwanted goods, in addition to getting rid of them. This applies equally for public trash cans and disposing of garbage at home, so I'll just focus on what it takes to get rid of the stuff from my apartment.

One of the biggest surprises I had waiting for me when I first moved here was the "garbage list". Which looks like this

Basically, what we have are:
燃えるごみ (moeru gomi), burnable garbage like kitchen waste, tissues, bedding, etc.
燃えないごみ (moenai gomi), non-burnable garbage like broken glass, rubber, non-recyclable plastic and metal (like jar lids), broken plates, etc.
プラ (pura), plastics
PET bottles, aka plastic pop/tea/juice bottles
紙 (kami), paper items like empty ice cream cups, paper bags, and paperboard boxes
瓶 (kame), glass bottles
缶 (kan), aluminum cans/metal
紙パック (kami paku), milk and juice cartons
資源ごみ (shigen gomi), recyclable materials (like all that office paper I've got)

The way you pay for your trash removal is actually a pretty good system, IMO. Instead of paying a monthly fee for however much you want to toss, you pay for the bags you use to put the trash out. Without the proper bag, they won't pick up your garbage. In addition, each household is allotted a certain amount of "trash stickers" to be used for the burnable and non-burnable trash. If, by some aberration of nature, you actually manage to use up all of the stickers they give you, I'm not really sure what happens. I've never even come close to it in my two years here.

Anyway, I was really fortunate in that the girl in my position before me was incredibly organized and left for me a pretty easy system for coping with the "list". I've got boxes under my sink for plastics, PET bottles, and boxboard. The burnable trash goes in the regular trash-can with a lid. In one of my closets I have boxes for aluminum cans/ metal and glass bottles, and a small box for non-burnables. I've only thrown the cans and bottles once or twice, and I've yet to collect enough non-burnable trash to make it worthwhile to bag up and put out. At least before the purge, heh heh heh.

In addition to the trash stickers, everybody gets a schedule for when to put their trash out. Burnables are taken twice a week, and everything else is on kind of a rotating system. It's pretty logical, put the separated trash in the appropriately colored clear-plastic bag, and in the case of burnable or non-burnable trash, a sticker showing your name and address. And if you've put something in there that shouldn't be there, technically somebody can return your trash to you for you to sort out before throwing it away again. Although I've snuck in the occasional junk-mail into the burnable garbage here and there, it's never been returned to me, and I see bags in the trash cans all the time that clearly have not been sorted properly.

All of this is to say, that although I've purged my shelves of all this paper, it still hasn't left my apartment. It's currently sitting in three nicely-loaded bags, waiting to be bundled in twine and taken over to the drop-off place. And there they shall sit for now, for recyclable materials like office paper and milk cartons are only collected once a month; and that day doesn't come again until November 14.

*sigh*